Backward Glances |
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| Written by Sacha Miller-Mcdonald | |
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Fabulous frocks, perky playsuits and pretty pinafores are all making a huge comeback this season. There are gorgeous replicas of many vintage styles in the shops at the moment, but here at AskBronny, we have a few tips for those who want to buy the real thing! Here are our tips on getting the most out of your vintage shopping experience. From St Vinnies to the Opshop to the local savers down the road.
Buying vintage wear is a little different from buying contemporary off-the-rack clothing. There is much more to consider, and often a little bit more evidence of the hand of fate! Garments from the past can be amazingly special things, and part of their charm is their histories – vintage wear isn’t referred to as ‘pre-loved’ for nothing! There really is nothing quite like finding a garment that suits your style and fits as if it had been made for you. What of the garments that you aren’t quite so instantly sure about? What are the best ways to sort out the items that are destined to become proud purchases, from the ones that are clearly meant for somebody else? Act In Haste… The first and most common trap to avoid when buying vintage wear, is to dive in too quickly. Falling in love with clothes is like falling in love with men. Some will be perfect, and you’ll know it from the start; some will seem perfect, but closer inspection and the passage of time will reveal a few fatal flaws, and some will be perfect after a few minor adjustments. And some should have neon skulls and crossbones stitched onto the lapels. When you find yourself in the full grip of lust at first sight, take a step back and honestly examine the garment. Is there a smell beyond the usual ‘second hand’ smell that may never go away? Is it too short or tight? Is there discoloration, stains, moth bites or rents in any very obvious places? Is there a grubby ‘tide mark’ on the crease of the collar, or at the hem? Are there any missing buttons or damaged trim? Or is the fabric worn in particular places? If the answer to any of the above questions is ‘yes’, then you must prepare yourself to take a long, hard look at your prospective purchase. Scents and (Your) Sensibilities Is the smell something you could actually live with (say, the original owner’s perfume), or not? Some odours will never come out without the assistance of a fully trained, bible-wielding exorcist. (Trust me, I once bought a camisole that smelled lightly of somebody else’s perfume – ten years and many, many washes later, it still does.) Stains On Your Reputation And what about any stains? Are they in places that could be easily hidden with the addition of some appropriate trim, or perhaps a cunningly placed brooch? Remember that, while modern dry cleaners can work miracles, any vintage wear that is purchased from a reputable op-shop or second hand clothing merchant will have already been dry cleaned, so a second dry cleaning may not help much. So if an item is stained when you find it, chances are, you’ll either need to accept it as part of the design, or leave this particular garment behind. Similarly, if the item is discolored in places (faded, yellowed, a bit grey) then you really are best to walk away. Those types of discolorations tend to not only be permanent, but also to worsen with time. Not Very Fitting If the garment is too short or too tight, check the hem or seams to see if there may be any leeway for widening or lengthening. Then, if there is, inspect that fabric carefully – is it a deeper colour than the rest of the garment, or is there a grubby, frayed or faded line along the seam? If so, you may find that any alterations will be very obvious, and not in a good way. Unravelling the Past What about grubby lines or fraying at hem, cuffs or collar? This can be tricky, because we’d all like to believe that other people won’t notice these things, but sadly, they will. Nothing will ruin or cheapen the look of your gorgeous new acquisition quicker than the slovenly appearance of dirty, greyish-brown lines. Buttons and Bows Missing buttons (check the cuffs for this, too), or trim that is discoloured or coming loose are the easiest difficulties to remedy. If the buttons are quite classic and plain, you may be able to match them up with a contemporary addition, but if they are a bit fancier, your best option will be to search around older haberdashery shops (and you may get lucky here), or else replace the lot. Similarly, tired looking trims can generally be repaired or replaced. The only exception here is piping – if the piping on the edges of collars, pockets, and cuffs is frayed, there is almost nothing to be done, short of having a dressmaker un-pick and replace the lot – costly, time consuming, and certainly not guaranteed 100% successful. Backward Glances When looking at a vintage garment, particularly a skirt, dress or trousers, turn it around and have a look at the derriere area. Many fabrics, particularly velvets, devore velvets brocades and other textured fabrics tend to wear in spots that get crushed – so, around the bottom and backs of thighs. So check the back of these garments, and if there is a bald patch (or even a bit of obvious flattening) or the fabric feels thinner from wear, put the item back on the hanger. Or else resign yourself to backing out of rooms to hide it. Some other quick tips for vintage shoppers are: Don’t be slavish, as being too finicky about matching clothes by era rather than the overall effect leads to the ‘costume party’ look, and then to something that I think of as your clothes wearing you! In other words, the outfit becomes more of a pressure than a pleasure. It’s fine to mix and match pieces from different eras, and in fact, clothes from adjacent decades worn together can be absolutely stunning. It’s also fine to mix beautiful vintage with gorgeous contemporary. With vintage styles reappearing and becoming ever more popular, the shops are full of fantastic vintage replicas and adaptations, so feel free to expand your vintage wardrobe with a few cheat pieces. When out shopping, don’t ignore the accessory rack. Often it’s the little extra touches that will tie an outfit together. When looking at a particular item, think carefully. Will its purchase necessitate several expensive ‘flow-on’ purchases? Will the repairs and renovations be so excessive that it’s barely worth it? If that gorgeous beaded 1960’s cocktail top will require you to buy a new skirt, shoes and other accessories in order to turn it into an outfit, or so much re-beading, taking in and letting down that the final outlay will be three times what you originally spent on it, walk away. It’s not a bargain if there’s lots of hidden costs attached. If you’re going to buy pre-loved shoes, then you must definitely try them on, as size and width can vary so greatly. When you do purchase retro footwear, take them to a cobbler/shoe care expert and find out the best way of disinfecting them without perishing the lining. Unromantic, I know, but unfortunately necessary. When your vintage purchases need cleaning (especially the more delicate ones), consider taking them to specialist bridal wear dry cleaners. It may cost you a little more, but it’s worth it to have your precious and irreplaceable treasures cleaned by somebody who understands the special processes required for cleaning delicate and vintage fabrics and trims. And finally, have fun with it. The true joy of vintage wear is that it enables us to (literally) try on different eras, so make the most of it. |
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