Let's get Ethical |
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| Written by Nicola Hyland | |
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It's not easy being green but it is easy to wear it. We're not musing over the magic of mint and joys of jade. We take a journey into the shiny, happy world of Ethical Fashion.
So, you good little hippies, you may congratulate yourselves on purchasing those organic free-range eggs, that fair trade coffee and those biodegradable bin liners; but are your fashion choices equally eco-friendly? Like your kitchen pantry, your wardrobe can be stocked with items that are environmentally savvy – and we're not just talking about shapeless hemp sacks either. Pioneering designers such as Stella McCartney are paving the way for a new wave of stylish ethical fashion. That’s right – green is rapidly becoming the new black. What is Ethical Fashion? Ethical fashion encompasses a broad range of efforts dedicated to the preservation of the planet, the rights of workers and manufacturers, as well as the protection of animals and other wildlife. While animal rights have long been a contentious issue in the fashion world, it is only more recently that the effects of globalisation and climate change have made a distinctive impact on the industry – questioning not only where garments came from, but also what they are made of and who made them. Ethical fashion considers not only the workers who sew the clothing, but also those involved in the processes of producing the raw materials for the fabrics used. Few consumers would truly comprehend the reality of the practices that go into creating an expensive pair of leather boots or simple cotton t-shirt. A garment designed in Italy might actually have been made in Vietnam, using resources from West Africa. Take a look at the labels in some of your bargain buys. You might be surprised about the journey they took to get to your wardrobe 1. Sweat shops and Cheap Labour In the 1990s an international exposé linked many large corporations to a huge proliferation of child and slave-labour rings amongst clothing factories in developing countries. These companies - predominantly sports brand clothing and shoe makers - were making billion-dollar profits while under-paying under-age workers in abysmal factory conditions. The blame was typically laid with the Governments where the garments were being outsourced to and despite the boycott of a few, these companies still managed to hock their products off to billions of ambivalent consumers. While efforts were made to ensure against the terrible conditions and pay rates in 'sweat shops', many large companies within the industry still rely on cheap labour, particularly in developing Asian countries such as Cambodia, Indonesia, Thailand, Vietnam and India. Watch Zoolander to get a semi-satirical look at the industry’s desperation to continue this practice. 2. Fair Trade fashion Designers and Manufacturers of Fair Trade fashion are committed to establishing an ethical partnership with the communities who source/grow the products for their garments, as well as refusing to utilise sweatshop factories to produce them. UK companies People Tree and Gossypium work in an even-handed partnership with the people in developing communities who produce the materials for their garments, significantly aiding struggling cotton farmers in India. American Apparel utilises a "vertically integrated" approach, whereby all stages of production – making and marketing - are undertaken under one roof. Companies such as these have discovered the merits of not outsourcing the workload; encouraging localised industry and boosting local employment. In Australia, a code of practice: 'Fairwear' – has been set up to promote local companies who refuse to utilise cheap sweatshop labour. Labels involved include Bardot, Collette Dinnigan, Teena Varigos, Hunter Gatherer and Puma. Companies committed to promoting a social conscience are epitomised by the initiatives of Aussie- based company Fully Stoked, who donate a portion of every purchase of their fabulous tees to conservation efforts, including the Chimpanzee Sanctuary and Wildlife Conservation Trust (CSWCT). Organisations like Oxfam and Trade-Aid also promote awareness and fair trade with clothing and jewellery manufacturers in developing countries. 3. Ecological Fashion While Adam and Eve were early innovators with their eco-friendly fashion practices, modern designers are catching on to the value of using organic and sustainable fabrics. Ecological apparel is fashion that utilises natural materials such as hemp, soya, corn fibres, cotton and silk which have all been processed with few chemicals and minimal waste. Like organic food, organic clothing manufacturers use natural, traditional - often pre-industrial – approaches in making their clothing. Eco fashion focuses on minimal disturbance to the environment and promotes the use of recycled materials. Labels such as Enamore seek to find a balance between 'green' and 'fashionable' – so there is no room for "that hemp sack just doesn't suit me" excuse. 4. Vegetarian/Vegan Fashion The poster-girl of Vegetarian fashion is undoubtedly Stella McCartney. The daughter of Beatle Paul McCartney, Stella has continued her mother Linda’s pro-vegetarian/pro-animal legacy since establishing her independent label in 2001. Designing fashion for Adidas, an exclusive range for H&M and even a much-anticipated range for Target, Stella has stood by her refusal to use leather and fur in even her high-end designer collections. She has also had acclaim for her use of unique alternatives, including hemp espadrilles and shoes made from leather-like plant matter. ‘Vegetarian’ fashion avoids products which use animal products, opting instead for synthetic alternatives. And they probably taste like tofu too. The issue of leather is particularly problematic for those of us who love expensive shoes. A committed vegetarian, I must admit that I would be heart-broken to part with my favourite leather shoes – made in Spain, possibly from the carcass of a recently slain bull-fighting victim. Those of you hoping to rid your closet of shoes made from the departed should check out Vegetarian shoes – a UK company inspired by people in Africa who made shoes from used car-tyres, creating shoes from materials used in yachting upholstery. Bourgeois Bohéme promotes 'fashion with compassion' – stocking a range of vegan shoes and accessories. Birkenstock also have a collection of non-leather/suede shoes. Synthetic shoes can be found almost everywhere and even if they don’t have that pleasant smell, feel or durability as leather, at least nothing was sacrificed in the process. |
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