Girls wll be boys |
|
| Written by Nicola Hyland | |
|
"Somebody told me you had a boyfriend that looks like a girlfriend". So Blur sings but are you man enough to wear a skirt? Girls wearing boys clothes, indeed!
Or woman enough to wear the pants? AskBronny explores the ambiguous world of androgenous fashion. It has been said that clothes "maketh the man" – yet our attire can also decide if we are "man" or "woman". Because Fashion has historically been a key outlet for self-expression, clothes and they way we wear them are a crucial way to challenge gender stereotypes. Modern fashion plays a huge role in breaking down the barriers of masculine/feminine identity; constantly challenging what belongs to who in the wardrobe. In almost every culture throughout history, clothing has identified whether we are male or female. From simple social norms, to rules of ‘propriety’ and even explicit regulations, there have always been certain guidelines about how to dress according to our specific gender. In western culture, girls are taught from infancy about what they should desire to wear to reinforce their 'femininity'; from the colours – pink, purple and various shades in between – to the design features – frills, ribbons, bows and heart-shaped buttons. Most children’s clothing designers market specifically to the gender opposition; with a perpetual collection of pink and polka-dots for little girls, and blues and browns with truck designs for the boys. In the 19th Century, it was still scandalous for Women to been seen in trousers. Only 'bohemian' types, like George Sand – a female novelist who enjoyed challenging gender stereotypes, even down to her male pseudonym – could "get away" with donning the overtly masculine item. History tells of famous female "cross dressers" who dressed like men to gain opportunities their gender would not have otherwise allowed them. Joan of Arc put on a suit of armour to fight a holy war! Even well into the 20th century women were still wary about compromising their femininity with a pair of slacks. It was only with the rise of Feminism and Women's Liberation movements that women began to understand that equality could be best expressed by trading their skirts for the comfort of jeans. Men too have faced the challenge of proving their masculinity by donning only the 'manliest' attire. More significantly, men have traditionally not even been allowed to take an interest in fashion at all – in doing so, they could actually be compromising their 'masculinity'. Yet the 20th century saw a change in Men's attitude towards fashion. Contemporary fashion cross-overs for men date back to the early days of Rock ’n’ Roll, with longer hair the first sign of the changing perceptions about Men’s fashion. Then the Hippy movement opened our minds to love, acceptance and floral prints for all. Glam Rock icon David Bowie introduced a mysterious androgyneity to Male fashion, while the Big Hair Bands of the 1980s – Bon Jovi, Poison etc – overthrew opinions of sexuality and fashion, with long hair, make-up and tight outfits driving the female fans into lusty fits. Throughout all this, however, were the stoically 'manly men' who would not be seen dead in anything remotely androgenous. Yet anyone who has crashed a few university parties will be familiar with the relish that macho, hetero men take in dressing up in their girlfriend’s dresses with bad wigs and over-the-top make-up. Men have always had opportunities to dress up as women – since Ancient Greece, Men had to play female roles in the theatre, while the "drag act" is a phenomenon dating back centuries. But, that's just "pretending", so it was deemed okay. The typical bloke has always been equated with complete intolerance of 'feminine' facets of male fashion. Yet this intolerance is shifting. The rise of the popularity of the pink ["actually it's salmon"] shirt amongst straight men – even footy players, that most masculine bunch – has proven that men are becoming increasingly more open about taking the gender rules away from fashion. The rise of the metrosexual phenomenon has also made it more acceptable for men to care about how they look, without the fear their mates will label them a woman. The androgenous look in fashion is a phenomenon that crept up in the 1990s. The Calvin Klein CK One campaign did a lot to challenge the separation of fashion into Man/Woman categories. The resurgence of retro rockers with long locks and tight trousers has given Male fashion a recent ambiguous edge. Male celebrities like Orlando Bloom and Johnny Depp show how men can be both ‘beautiful’ and desirable, without having to don work boots and black singlet. While nobody could call accuse a Scotsman in a kilt of being a girl, the idea of Men in skirts is still a hazy concept. Pacific cultures have often seen men in traditional ‘skirts,’ the sarong or lungi is still worn by men in South Asia, while men survive intense heat with their traditional dhoti in India. A friend of mine went to an exhibition at the Metropolitan Museum in New York in 2003 entitled "Braveheart: Men in Skirts" which sought to challenge people’s ideas about Men in 'skirts'. She was surprised by how incredibly striking the images were, particularly those of Male dancers who were anything but 'girly'. Designers like Jean Paul Gaultier, John Galliano and Armani have all designed skirts for men, although we are yet to see a world-wide trend. David Beckham – another man who continually pushes gender boundaries in fashion – caused utter chaos when he appeared in a sarong, yet nobody questions his masculinity when he kicks a ball around for a few hours. Of course, most women in western culture have stopped seeing trousers as belonging only in the man’s domain. The evolution of women’s cuts in jeans and the variety of tailored fitting trousers see a girl’s best assets shown off in a way that a voluminous skirt never could. In some ways, 'men's' fashion can be manipulated by woman into outfits that flaunt a naughty side. Celebrities such as Jodie Foster and Posh Spice have both caused mini riots by donning a sleeker, feminine version of a man’s suit jacket with absolutely nothing underneath. Cutting-edge magazines often use images of women in typically 'Male' outfits or accessories – such as boxing gloves or cigars – to emphasise that women can be both powerful and sexy at the same time. Recently, high-end designers such as Stella McCartney and Karen Walker have utilised androgenous and boyish elements in their collections. Higher-waisted 'man pants' see the shift away from skinny jeans to a more comfortable colonial-inspired style. Waist coats, masculine belts and fitted 'French duke' coats are also proving popular looks for everyday wear. Naval and military inspirations in fashion sees masculine rigidity combined with the floaty feminine styles we will see a lot of this spring. The female tuxedo has also been a favourite amongst Hollywood darlings lately, with Katie Holmes, Kirsten Dunst and Charlize Theron combining black tie glam with polished heels and sequinned clutches. We're not suggesting that gals pop on overalls and head down a mining pit, or boys grab the mascara and start experimenting, but it is interesting to think about how fashion is beginning to reinforce the equality of the sexes through androgenous styling. As the song says, take a walk on the wild side. |
|
AskBronny for Men
| Are you a guy and need some fashion advice? Then don't be shy! AskBronny - she's got all the fashion answers for you. AskBronny today. |
Ask a Question
|
AskBronny a question now! She's got all the fashion answers for you! Ask Now |
Famous Fashion Quotes
|
I sincerely feel that beauty largely comes from within. Christy Turlington. |
Product of the Week
 Hot Hot Hot! We just love these heels from Net-A-Porter. Sure, they'll cost you a small fortune but trust us - it's an investment! 289.36UKP Buy Now... |
Specialist Auctions
| Check out the hottest marketplace online SpecialistAuctions. Create an account and start buying and selling today! |
Favorite Online Store
 DestinationStyle We love it because you guessed it, it is just sooooo stylish! Subscribe to Styling and you'll get the special code this week to get a 10% discount when you shop. This offer is exclusively for AskBronny Styling ezine subscribers only. Shop Now... |
Recent Blog Updates
| We welcome to the blog Miss Sandi who will be blogging about everything from fashion through to whatever takes her fancy. We can't wait to see what she comes up with. Check out her first blog now. Read more... |
Fitted For Work
| Fitted For Work is all about helping women returning to the workforce. They take the workforce clothes that you no longer need and pass them onto women who do! How about sending through your castoffs (work appropriate only please). Check out how you can donate Fitted For Work. |
Fashion Tid Bit
Don't go overboard with layers, or you will look like a wedding cake that has been overdecorated - not tasty at all.