Riding a constant wave of military chic on the catwalk and sidewalk, fashionistas seem to be becoming increasingly apathetic about the politics behind their combat-inspired outfits. Reflecting the ever-present televised images of conflicts near and far, fashion design has incorporated various elements of military apparel in almost every season since 1999. Yet, few of us have ever questioned what wearing these pieces mean to us mere civilians. With a colourful history veering from statements of proud patriotism to stoic protest, military chic carries a far more potent message then just cutting-edge style.   

While military influences in both contemporary male and female fashion can be certainly linked to the Vietnam War era, there are also flashes of fashion allegiance reflected in the style worn by woman during WWI and II. Fuelled by the ‘Rosie the Riveter’ ethic, hard-working wives and girlfriends showed their support for the war effort by substituting their silk stocking for bare-roots uniforms. In hard-wearing drill and reflecting the muted tones of the regulation apparel of their soldier beaus, these practical styles epitomised a national effort to get behind those ‘fighting the good fight.’

Likewise, the women whose role it was to raise the morale of the troops through entertaining in bars and concerts often wore cutesy feminised versions of military apparel [such as in Christina Aguilera’s ‘Candy man’ music video] to show their commitment. A resurgence of this glamorous 1930s “Bluebell” style was recently reinforced by the Spice Girls, with the fabulous five donning khaki and petite military caps for their Victoria’s Secret comeback show.

During the 1960s, Military fashion came to represent a vastly different form of dissent. With the growing unpopularity of the Vietnam War, civilians increasingly took on elements of military apparel as a form of visual protest. From Veteran protestors, to the ‘anti-protest’ hippie movement, solider style showed a growing negative feeling towards War and those involved in it. Some of this related to economics – with Army Surplus stores selling cheaper clothing that just happened to mirror the hardy and practical garments of the armed forces. Overwhelmingly, however, military-inspired fashion began to symbolise an anti-establishment sentiment, pointing towards the support of guerrilla warfare that saw rebel icons like Che Guevara emerge as heroes for the disenchanted youth. Frighteningly, military fashion is the style favoured by many of the teenagers responsible for the growing amount of high-school massacres. 

Since the 1980s, Military-styled apparel has also been seen as a symbol of women’s empowerment, reflecting the independence and ‘fighting’ spirit of the modern woman. The hard lines and cuts of outfits inspired by the armed forces often come as a reaction to the feminine and floaty fashions favoured particularly in the summer months. Military fashion also tends to be incorporated into androgynous collections, adopted by designers ranging from Viviane Westwood to Karen Walker.

Many of these influences are particularly subtle. In the early 1990s, camouflage and cargo pants were all the rage, spiked by the likes of Janet Jackson’s ‘Rhythm Nation.’ The Noughties have seen the rise and fall of utility fabrics, berets, trench coats, fatigues, flight and bomber jackets, brass buttons, military straps and buckles, dog-tags and storm collars. Military colours have also seen passing phases, from naval and Airforce blue, to khaki, beige and olives. Air force and aviation-themed styles followed the release of the film ‘Aviator.’ In recent collections, the uniform style cinch belt has made a comeback, while the pea coat was a 2007 must-have. Elite fashion houses who consistently showcase military influences include Balenciaga, Versace and Burberry.

To many of those within the military, fashion inspired by their own practical fatigues is viewed as tasteless or offensive. There is a real sense of ‘Earning your stripes’ within the armed forces, so a twelve year old girl in combat gear tends to be viewed rather ironically. In the United States it is actually a felony to wear any overtly distinctive part of the national military uniform – although more expensive ‘rip offs’ are okay. It is clear that there has been a huge growth in opposition to the ongoing conflict in Iraq, yet fashion seems to have ignored this desire for disassociation completely.  

On a trip to Berlin last year, I was surprised at the vast extent in which former DDF items are cast off as tourist fodder. Berlin seems to be the military-chic-amongst -civilians capital of the world.  After visiting Russia and experiencing the intimidation of the numerous uniformed officers, I am also interested at the haphazard way that ‘KGB’ and Soviet inspired fashion has taken off in the rest of Europe and the world. Obviously the 1970s-80s Cold War hysteria has melted into something simply ‘cool.’

In an age where Politicians are some of the least hip people around, it is pretty interesting how one former leader has formed a vast fashion following. The late Yasser Arafat’s scarf – the “keffiyeh” – was a true trademark, worn to emulate the shape of the troubled Palestine region he was devoted leader of until his death in 2004. Seen in the Arab word as a sign of masculinity, the keffiyeh or “shemagh” has a practical function in hot and dusty climates, but has come to characterise strong feelings of Palestinian nationalism. Some view it as staunchly ‘anti war,’ some as showing support for Islamic extremist groups like Hamas, some as purely anti-Semitic. This mixed-view on its symbolism certainly makes it a loaded accessory – so it is ironic that you can now buy a version of the keffiyeh in outlets like Myer. I wonder if the fifteen year old girl in tiny shorts on the train last week in Melbourne wondered about what it meant before she wrapped it on?

With summer almost here in the Southern Hemisphere, the dark militaristic tones of winter fashion are being replaced by Hippie-inspired colours and styles. The Maxi dress evokes the psychedelic floral and paisley prints of the original Anti-war flower children. Loose kaftans and ‘tribal’ accessories signal a return to a commercial variation on the ‘holistic’ ideals of the peace-loving generation. Hey, it is even becoming hip to wear flowers in your hair again. Far out.

Is the fashion world so shallow that we can’t associate the symbols of war with its horrific effects? Nobody bats an eyelid when you wear your storm-trooper trench and Che Guevara tee-shirts have become reduced to sad market-stock clichés. Whether you are a lover or a fighter, sometimes you may be wearing your heart on your sleeve without you even knowing it – or someone else’s heart for that matter. Make fashion, not war…